आठ-हजारी

नेपाली विकिपीडियाबाट
यसमा जानुहोस्: अन्वेषण, खोज्नुहोस्
अन्तराष्ट्रिय स्पेश स्टेशनबाट चो यु, ल्होत्से, मकालु र सगरमाथा देखिंदै
खुम्बु-क्षेत्रमाथि जहाजबाट; छवटा आठ-हजारी र केही सात हजारी (तीनको पहिचान भयेको) देखिंदै

'आठ हजारी' अर्थात आठ हजार भन्दा बढी ऊँचाई भएका पर्वतहरू। यस्ता खालका पृथ्वीमाथी १४ वटा स्वतंत्र पर्वतहरू छन जस्का ऊँचाई समुद्रको सतहबाट ८००० (२६,२४७ फिट) भन्दा बढी छ। यी सबै पर्वतहरू एशियाको हिमाल अनि कराकोरम पर्वत श्रेणीमा स्थित छन। अल्बर्ट एफ मम्मेरी र जे नॉरमन कोली द्वारा १८९५मा कश्मिर क्षेत्र (हालमा गिल्गित-बल्टिस्टान, पाकिस्तान)को नंगा पर्वतमा प्रथम पल्ट आठ हजारीमाथि सफल आरोहण गर्ने प्रयास दर्ज गराये; तर यो प्रयास विफल रह्यो किनकी हिमस्खलनमा मम्मेरी र दुई जना गोर्खा रघुवीर र गोमन सिंहको मृत्यु भयो। आठ हजारीमाथि प्रथम सफल आरोहण गर्ने व्यक्ति हुन मौरिस हेरजोंग र लुईस लाचेनल जो ३ जुन १९५०मा अन्नपुर्णाको शिखरमा पुग्न सफल भये। रेनहोल्ड मेसनर प्रथम व्यक्ति हुन जिनले सबै १४ वटै आठ हजारी हिमाल आरोहण गरे। उहाँले यो कार्य १६ अक्टोबर १९८६मा सम्पन्न गरे। एक साल पछि १९८७मा जर्जि कुकुज्काले यो करतब पुरा गर्ने दोश्रो आरोही बने। मेसनर पुरक अक्सीजनको सहायता बिना १४औं शिखरमा चढन सफल भये। मेसनर सफल भयेको दिन देखि ९ वर्ष सम्म कसैले यो करतब पुन: गर्न सकेन। पछि इरहार्ड लोरेटनले १९९५मा यो कार्य गर्न सफल भये। वर्ष २०११ अनुसार जमा २६ जना निर्विवाद सबै १४ औं शिखरमा आरोहण गर्न सफल भई सकेका छन। यो एउटा धेरैनै खतरनाक करतब हो, यो करतब पुरा गर्न कम्तीमा चार जना मारिए। नेपालको फुर्बा तासिले आठ हजारीमाथि सबैभन्दा धेरै पल्ट आरोहण गर्न सफल भयेको छन।


आठ हजारी हिमालको सूची[१][२] [सम्पादन गर्ने]

शिखर उचाई अवस्थिति प्रथम आरोहण प्रथम आरोही(हरू) हिँउदमा प्रथम आरोहण हिँउदका प्रथम आरोही आरोहण संख्या मृत्यु मृत्युदर मृत्युदर
1990भन्दा अघि*		 मृत्युदर
1990यता*
सगरमाथा 8848 m (29,029 ft) जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीनचीन/नेपालनेपाल 29 May 1953 New Zealand एडमंड हिलारी
नेपालभारततेन्जींग नॉरगे		 17 Feb 1980
 पोल्याण्ड Krzysztof Wielicki
पोल्याण्ड Leszek Cichy		 3684 210 5.70% 37% 4.4%
के२ हिमाल 8611 m (28,251 ft) चीनी जनवादी गणराज्यचीन/पाकिस्तानपाकिस्तान[३] 31 Jul 1954 इटाली Achille Compagnoni
इटाली Lino Lacedelli		 284 66 23.24% 41% 19.7%
कञ्चनजङ्घा 8586 m (28,169 ft) नेपालनेपाल/भारतभारत 25 May 1955 संयुक्त अधिराज्य George Band
संयुक्त अधिराज्य Joe Brown		 11 Jan 1986 पोल्याण्ड Krzysztof Wielicki
पोल्याण्ड Jerzy Kukuczka		 209 40 21.4% 21% 22%
ल्होत्से 8516 m (27,940 ft) जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीनचीन/नेपालनेपाल 18 May 1956 Switzerland Fritz Luchsinger
Switzerland Ernst Reiss		 31 Dec 1988 पोल्याण्ड Krzysztof Wielicki 221 11 3.43% 14% 2%
मकालु 8485 m (27,838 ft) चीनी जनवादी गणराज्यचीन/नेपालनेपाल 15 May 1955 स्पेन Jean Couzy
स्पेन Lionel Terray		 09 Feb 2009 इटाली Simone Moro
कजाख्स्तान Denis Urubko		 234 26 11.11% 16% 8.5%
चो यु 8201 m (26,906 ft) जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीनChina/नेपालNepal 19 Oct 1954 Austria Joseph Joechler
नेपाल Pasang Dawa Lama
Austria Herbert Tichy		 12 Feb 1985 पोल्याण्ड Maciej Berbeka
पोल्याण्ड Maciej Pawlikowski		 2668 39 1.46%
धवलागिरी प्रथम 8167 m (26,795 ft) नेपालNepal 13 May 1960 Austria Kurt Diemberger
जर्मनी Peter Diener
नेपाल Nawang Dorje
नेपाल Nima Dorje
Switzerland Ernst Forrer
Austria Albin Schelbert		 21 Jan 1985 पोल्याण्ड Andrzej Czok
पोल्याण्ड Jerzy Kukuczka		 358 58 16.20% 31% 11%
Manaslu 8163 m (26,781 ft) नेपालNepal 09 May 1956 जापान Toshio Imanishi
नेपाल Gyalzen Norbu		 14 Jan 1984 पोल्याण्ड Maciej Berbeka
पोल्याण्ड Ryszard Gajewski		 297 53 17.85% 35.16% 13.42%
नाँगा पर्वत 8126 m (26,660 ft) पाकिस्तानPakistan 03 Jul 1953 Austria Hermann Buhl 287 64 22.30% 77% 5.5%
अन्नपूर्ण प्रथम 8091 m (26,545 ft) नेपालNepal 03 Jun 1950 स्पेन Maurice Herzog
स्पेन Louis Lachenal		 03 Feb 1987 पोल्याण्ड Jerzy Kukuczka
पोल्याण्ड Artur Hajzer		 153 58 38% 66% 19.7%
ग्यासेर्बम (also known as Hidden Peak) 8080 m (26,444 ft) जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीनChina/पाकिस्तानPakistan [३] 05 Jul 1958 संयुक्त राज्य अमेरिका Andrew Kauffman
संयुक्त राज्य अमेरिका Pete Schoening		 9 March 2012 पोल्याण्ड आदम् ब्बिएलेक्कि
पोल्याण्ड ज्जनुस्ज् ङोलब्		 265 25 9.43% 15.5% 8.75%
ब्रोड पीक 8051 m (26,414 ft) जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीनChina/पाकिस्तानPakistan[३] 09 Jun 1957 Austria Fritz Wintersteller
Austria Marcus Schmuck
Austria Kurt Diemberger
Austria Hermann Buhl
 359 19 5.29% 5% 8.6%
ग्यासेर्बर्म दोस्रो 8034 m (26,358 ft) जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीनChina/पाकिस्तानPakistan[३] 07 Jul 1956 Austria Fritz Moravec
Austria Josef Larch
Austria Hans Willenpart		 02 Feb 2011 इटाली Simone Moro
कजाख्स्तान Denis Urubko
संयुक्त राज्य अमेरिका Cory Richards		 836 19 2.27% 7.8% 0.44%
सिसपाङमा 8027 m (26,335 ft) जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीनChina 2 May 1964 जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीन Hsu Ching
जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीन Chang Chun-yen
जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीन Wang Fuzhou
जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीन Chen San
जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीन Cheng Tien-liang
जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीन Wu Tsung-yue
जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीन Sodnam Doji
जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीन Migmar Trashi
जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीन Doji
जनबादी गणतन्त्र चीन Yonten		 14 Jan 2005 पोल्याण्ड Piotr Morawski
इटाली Simone Moro		 274 23 8.39% 2% 16.8%

* As of September 2003, data from Chinese National Geography, august 2006, page 77 (the column "first ascensionist(s) in winter" has different sources).

Verified climbers who have reached the summit of all 14 eight-thousanders[४] [सम्पादन गर्ने]

Field 02 lists people who have peaked all 14 without bottled oxygen.

Order
accomplished		 All without
O2 (order)		 Name Period born at age Nationality
1 1 Reinhold Messner 1970–1986 1944 42 इटाली Italian
2 Jerzy Kukuczka 1979–1987 1948 39 पोल्याण्ड Polish
3 2 Erhard Loretan 1982–1995 1959 36 Switzerland Swiss
4 [५] Carlos Carsolio 1985–1996 1962 33 मेक्सिको Mexican
5 Krzysztof Wielicki 1980–1996 1950 46 पोल्याण्ड Polish
6 3 Juanito Oiarzabal 1985–1999 1956 43 स्पेन Spanish
7 Sergio Martini 1983–2000 1949 51 इटाली Italian
8 Park Young-Seok 1993–2001 1963 38 दक्षिण कोरिया Korean
9 Um Hong-Gil 1988–2001 1960[६] 40 दक्षिण कोरिया Korean
10 4 Alberto Iñurrategi 1991-2002[७] 1968 33 स्पेन Spanish
11 Han Wang-Yong 1994–2003 1966 37 दक्षिण कोरिया Korean
12 5[८] Ed Viesturs 1989–2005 1959 46 संयुक्त राज्य अमेरिका American
13 6[९][१०][११] Silvio Mondinelli 1993–2007 1958 49 इटाली Italian
14 7[१२] Ivan Vallejo 1997–2008 1959 49 इक्वेडर Ecuador
15 8 [१३] Denis Urubko 2000–2009 1973 35 कजाख्स्तान Kazakhstan
16 Ralf Dujmovits 1990–2009 1961[१४] 47 जर्मनी German
17 9 Veikka Gustafsson 1993–2009 1968 41 फिनल्याण्ड Finnish
18 [१५] Andrew Lock 1993–2009 1961[१६] 48 Australia Australian
19 10 João Garcia 1993–2010 1967 43 पोर्चुगल Portuguese
20 [१७] Piotr Pustelnik 1990–2010 1951 58 पोल्याण्ड Polish
21 [१८] Edurne Pasaban 2001–2010 1973 36 स्पेन Spanish
22 [१९] Abele Blanc 1992–2011[२०][२१] 1954 56 इटाली Italian
23 Mingma Sherpa 2000–2011[२०] 1978 33 नेपाल Nepal
24 11 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner 1998–2011[२०] 1970 40 Austria Austria
25 Vassily Pivtsov 2001–2011[२०] 1975 36 कजाख्स्तान Kazakhstan
26 12 Maxut Zhumayev 2001–2011[२०] 1977 34 कजाख्स्तान Kazakhstan
27 Kim Jae-Soo 2000–2011[२०] 1961 50 दक्षिण कोरिया Korean

विवाद [सम्पादन गर्ने]

Disputes occur when not enough evidence was provided to claim the climb up to the highest peak.

Name Period born at age Nationality
Fausto De Stefani (Lhotse 1997[२२]) 1983–1998 1952 46 इटाली Italy
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990[२३][२४]) 1987–2005 1954 53 संयुक्त अधिराज्य British
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma 2000[२५][२६]) 1993-2002 (deceased) 1953 49 युक्रेन Ukrainian
Oh Eun-Sun (Kangchenjunga 2009[२७][२८][२९][३०]) 1997–2010 1966 44 दक्षिण कोरिया Korean


Flight over Khumbu-region; six eight-thousanders and some seven-thousanders (three identified) are visible

चित्रावली [सम्पादन गर्ने]

सन्दर्भ सामग्री [सम्पादन गर्ने]

  1. ↑ Geographical facts and first ascents information of the Main 8000ers http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/8000ers-mainmenu-205.html
  2. ↑ Complete ascent - fatalities statistics of all 14 main 8000ers
  3. ↑ ३.० ३.१ ३.२ ३.३ The summits of K2, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak are on the de facto border between Pakistan and चीन along the "Karakoram" range. They are claimed by India. The most common ascent routes to the summits are largely via Pakistan, with some climbing from the चीन side.
  4. ↑ climbers who have reached the summit of all 14 eight-thousanders http://www.8000ers.com/cms/download.html?func=startdown&id=155
  5. ↑ Carlos Carsolio required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988.
  6. ↑ EverestNews2004.com, News (age calculated: in 2004 Hong-Gil Um was 44), "Mr. Um Hong Gil has bagged his 15th 8000 meter peak" 
  7. ↑ Kukuxumusu, Spanish News, "05/20/2002¬ Alberto Iñurrategi achieves his fourteenth "eight thousand meters"" 
  8. ↑ Mounteverest.net, News, ...the American climber became one of only five men in the world to accomplish the quest entirely without supplementary oxygen., "Best of ExplorersWeb 2005 Awards: Ed Viesturs and Christian Kuntner" 
  9. ↑ Mounteverest.net, News, Last year, Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli broke the haunted 13 when he summited the last peak on his list of 14, 8000ers - becoming only the 6th mountaineer in the world to have bagged them all without supplementary oxygen., "The wolf is back: Gnaro bags Baruntse" 
  10. ↑ PlanetMountain.com, News, 13/07 interview with Silvio Mondinelli after the summit of his 14th 8000m peak without supplementary oxygen., "The day after: Silvio Mondinelli, Broad Peak and all 14 8000m summits" 
  11. ↑ Mounteverest.net, News, Implied in text: ...Following Italian Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli last year and American Ed Viesturs in 2005, Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen., "The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue" 
  12. ↑ Mounteverest.net, News, ...Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen., "The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue" 
  13. ↑ PlanetMountain.com, "Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks" 
  14. ↑ "Ralf Dujmovits" 
  15. ↑ "Summit 8000 - Andrew Lock's quest to climb all fourteen of the highest mountains in the world" 
  16. ↑ "Australia's Most Accomplished Mountaineer", 2009-10-02 
  17. ↑ "Piotr Pustelnik summits Annapurna - bags the 14x8000ers!" 
  18. ↑ "Shisha Pangma: Edurne Pasaban summits - completes the 14x800ers" 
  19. ↑ "Abele Blanc summits Annapurna and all 8000ers" 
  20. ↑ २०.० २०.१ २०.२ २०.३ २०.४ २०.५ "Climbers - First 14, updated table on 8000ers.com" 
  21. ↑ [१]
  22. ↑ MountEverest.net, News, "Fausto de Stefani back for Lhotse – changes ahead on the 14x8,000ers summiteers’ list?" 
  23. ↑ AdventureStats.net, Official records, "Climbers that have summited 10 to 13 of the 14 Main-8000ers" 
  24. ↑ MountEverest.net, News, under heading No Proof: Alan himself said later that he continued alone for one hour into the fog to find the true summit. He said that he "has no proof to have not been to the summit" and so he counts it a done deal. The statistician's didn't buy it, and Alan was deleted on all of the Cho Oyu lists., "Alan Hinkes Kangchenjunga - 13 or 14?" 
  25. ↑ Russianclimb.com, Mountaineering World of Russia & CIS, "Vladislav Terzyul, List of ascents" 
  26. ↑ Everest News, Sad results on Makalu: 1 missing climber and 1 passed away on Makalu Update
  27. ↑ http://www.google.com/hostednews/afp/article/ALeqM5gJJSbed0lBqIiIqGr-y4HVeHXyUw
  28. ↑ http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19284
  29. ↑ "New doubts over Korean Oh Eun-Sun's climbing record", BBC News, 2010-08-27.
  30. ↑ http://www.himalayandatabase.com/downloads/Seasonal%20Stories%202010.pdf

यो पनि हेर्नुहोस् [सम्पादन गर्ने]

Portal-puzzle.svg Mountains portal
"http://ne.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=आठ-हजारी&oldid=318154" बाट निकालिएको